Chimera Kennels

This box is 4 feet wide by 4 feet long and 32" tall (just under 30" on the inside). This size is large enough for mastiff type dogs to have their pups in, but still small enough they can heat it up well during cold weather. It is made out of 3/4" pressure treated plywood, 2x4's and 4x4's. No nails. Screws and bolts only...built to last. I will mention a few things above various photos so those interested in making a box can take note of some things that should be considered...

The two stage steps make it is easier to get back in than it is to get out. This is done to be sure that once the pups are big enough to get out, they are able to get back in. The lower step is a 4 x 6 and the upper step is a 4x4. Screwed from the inside. Also notice the heavy duty hinges.

The top of the house is supported by 4 runners underneath. The reason for this is so mom can get time away from the nursing pups as they become more demanding. By placing the 2x4 roof supports on the top of the box walls...I built in 1 & 1/2" (a 2x4 is not a full 2" deep) of ventilation around the sides of the whelping box. The front and back are not vented as I placed the 2x4s even with the front and back. This helps the house vent during hot weather without propping the lid open...which can be nice during rainy summer days (although this house is under protective covering). I don't like the lid to stick out past the house, as that creates and edge that many dogs will chew on.

Also notice the doorway has 2x4 on the edge of the door cut out of the 3/4" plywood. This prevents mom or pups from chewing on the sides of the doorway by  making it wide enough that it isn't "mouth friendly" in size. Toss in a nylabone or something and they will tend to favor it over the door. I used to not do this, and doors would mysteriously grow larger in time.

"Pup/pig rails" provide a safe zone for pups to get under when a tired mother is sleeping (so they don't get rolled on). Many whelping boxes use 2x4's but do not like to use 2x4's because I fear the 2x4 wanting to roll down by not offering enough 2 width to support the weight of the mother should she step on the rail. The wider 4x4 allows the screws for attachment to be offset (more on the upper edge) so the board doesn't want to roll down should mother step on it. I could jump on these and they aren't going anywhere.

Wheels because it weighs about 200# and needs to be cleaned regularly (including underneath). The floor has a LOT of 5/16" holes drilled into it for drainage (probably 50 but they are not visible in the photos). This smaller hole prevents the puppies from getting their feet stuck in a hole, but allows water to drain out during cleaning.Also notice the bottom of the floor is elevated about 2" from the bottom edge so I have room for the 2x4's and also allows for the house to sit close to the ground once the wheels are attached. I don't want the pups to be able to get under the house, but neither do I want the house directly on the ground (promoting bacteria growth). I have about 3/4" clearance under the house.

Prop up board attached with a henge to prevent it from getting knocked out of position. This provides a "3rd hand" while managing the pups, cleaning the box, or to increase ventilation should it be hot out or need to dry out after cleaning. Also notice the small plywood support that catches this prop board when it is in the down position.

Notice the "slip stop" on the roof for the prop up board.

The bottom of the door is 1/8" above the top of the 4x4 pup/pig rail. The purpose for this is so the edge is smooth enough that the doorway is comfortable for the mother (or when in use as a dog house) for the mother or dog to look out...PLUS it prevents the nipples of a nursing mother from being drug across a sharp edge of plywood. The reason I don't do it even with the top of the pig rail, but is 1/8" above the puppy/pig rail is so the little toe nails of the pups can hook onto the door to help pull themselves back in.

That is a beautifuly designed box. I'm getting ready to build something for Cash here over the next couple weeks. What did that run ya approximately? I've been going back and forth on whether or not to buy pre made or build my own. I feel I would build a better box on my own, but I have to factor in the price of buying or renting the tools to build it as I don't currently own or have access to any. Anyone have experience with the plastic lumber? I'm not sure if it's sold in sheets or not, but I like the idea of using it if they do. Also how long do you expect these boxes to last under normal wear and tear? Thanks.

My old box is probably 7 years old. It is still functional and has never been retreated. It does show age though. The main problem with it is where the dogs chewed on the door way or the lid...so that was part of the reason I made some changes.

With the wheels, heavier plywood, 4x4 pig rails, hinges, ets...this box was probably $150 or so. If I was making it for a non-breeding dog it wouldn't need those things...and I could have easily made the box smaller and also for much less...probably $75 to $100.

Of course, if it is just for a male dog, you could get an old plastic drum from a soda company and make a box like this...

Thank you Sir. I may give the barrel setup a try. I was pricing recycled plastic lumber last night and it isn't much more expensive than treated lumber so I may give that a try depending on ease of building. I imagine they would last for multiple generations hopefully??? Shark Boy is looking great by the way I really like all three dogs I've seen from that litter. They are all very consistant in looks at least.