Chimera Kennels
- Producing performance by selecting for it!
Personal Protection Training Field
This is where we do our personal protection training. Safety comes first. We have 6 (6"x6")posts placed into the ground ~3 feet and concreted in to ensure safety. We require the use of double lines, each line going to a seperate collar. We have 32 feet of privacy fencing that aids in our training by supplying a physical and visual barrier which in the middle there is a gate to do gate/doorway type guarding scenerios. The field includes an aggitator blind type fence (not pictured). Training includes post work, on lead protection, and muzzle work according to the protection protocol. Dogs work out on tugs, sleeves, muzzlework, weapons, and eventually combinations of all these in use with heavy double bungie lines to bring the dog's drives to their full potential. The end result is a dog that protects on or off leash when commanded to do so and for your defense. If you are interested in seeing our dogs work we can try to arrange a demonstation. Conditioning Your Canine
There are several pieces of equipment that I recommend in a conditioning program, but the most cost effective piece is without a doubt the flirt pole. Pictured here is a design I came up with made from a 7 1/2 feet length of 3/4" PVC and 17' rope. I share this design hoping that a few others use it to improve their conditioning and performance testing programs. To make it, tie a knot at the end of the rope so the end doesn't follow through the pipe. Then run the unknotted end through and pull tight to knot. Once this is done tie another knot at the other end of the pipe while keeping the slack out of the pipe. This keeps the rope from moving within the pipe and by running the rope through the entire pipe you will keep the pipe from calapsing and folding over from excessive bending as the dogs catch it and bow it over. Then tie a final knot 8" from the hanging end. Zig zag this and go around in front of your dog to stimulate his chase response. For best results, start dogs that are low in prey drive dogs off with a high prey drive dog that will teach them the game. Let them catch the end occationally and pull and tug to "win the pole" for a carry to keep them interested. Stop playing and put the pole up while they are still interested to keep them intersted for the next time. It is best to start this with young dogs. Look at our video page of Splash working the flirt pole to see how it is used.
Flirt pole pictures
Get them interested, get them worked up good, but STOP while they are still interested!
Using the Spring Pole
Here is a well designed "spring pole." If you design one of these, do not use nails! Because of the shaking, rocking, and rolling be sure to use heavy duty bolts and locknuts and long heavy duty exterior wood screws. These poles go 3 feet into the ground and must be strong and solid for safety, but it doesn't need to be completely rigid. A little "rocking and rolling" will actually stimulate the dog and work to the dog's advantage, but it should be completely secure and sound structurally. It is best not to use the metal garage door type spring, but instead use an inner tube as your elastic source. I prefer using a bike tube for my spring. To attach your tug to it, simply get a tug with a nylon loop, rap the nylon loop through the inner tube, and then feed to tug back through its own handle. No metal or chain is needed that can harm your dogs teeth. You should attach some type of quick release to the system to allow a timely win if needed to reward with a "win." I do this by releasing the inner tube and tug both, as I use a metal release and therefore have it above the tube. If you get a tug with a long enough loop, you could cut one side of the loop to make a strap, which (if long enough) could be tied to the tube with a "quick release" knot. Regardless, be sure to reward with praise while they are working the tug or rope. Using the tredmill
For those interested in mill work for an endurance program...start your dog on a mill young to get them used to it. Dogs are not "worked out" at this age, but just trained to run a mill in order to get them used to it. Later, when they are older, you can worry about conditioning them. Laying this foundation of millwork early is important for dogs. Don't overdo it though...start for just a minute, then 2, then 5 but no more than that is necessary until they are at least 6 months old. This is just foundation training to get them used to it as is pictured on the left with the pup. At 6 months, depending on the dog, you can increase the time to 10 minutes if it is done regularly but I wouldn't go more than that until they are 9 months old or so. Then 15 minutes and after a year you can just read the dog to their level. Make it fun. Mill work should be done on an empty stomach. When finishing a workout, mill or any other, it is best to let a dog dip his tongue and get a SMALL drink to wet their lips is fine, but nothing major until they are settled down and cooled off. Letting them cool off and settle down first will help prevent problems. If a dog gets hot, simply cool them down with a hose and rub down. 